Traveler's Tree

One last flower post. Traveler's Tree. They look like white birds of paradise, but very tall with symmetrical leaves growing sideways, like the ribs of a spreading fan. In the groove formed where each leave clasps the stem is a pocket of drinkable water, hence the name.

Back from our travels, we are happy to be home but part of my heart always seems to stay in Hawaii.

My Beloved, on the other hand, is relieved to be back in the coolth of the bay area. Because he runs about ten degrees warmer than the average person (which makes him a delightful heat source on a cold winter's night), he suffers in the moist warmth of Hawaii. I love being dressed in little besides shorts or a wispy dress and flip flops. He's happiest when a tad more clothing is required.

Perhaps a compromise can be worked out - half the year in Hawaii and half the year here in the bay area? Sounds perfect to me. Now, all I need is to win the lottery.

Asian Inspiration

The only meal I prepared in Hawaii that I thought was worth talking about was an Asian-inspired wonton soup. We had all been to the Punahou carnival and eaten all kinds of less-than-healthy options there, so I thought that a leaner meal at home was in order.

But, since we were chaperoning my brother's two teenage progeny while he and his lovely wife of 20 years were sampling the peaceful luxuries of a marvelously upscale retreat on the island of Lanai, it had to be tasty, too. Teenagers, no matter how well raised, won't hesitate to tell you if they don't like the food.

I had never made wontons in my life, so this was a bit of a challenge for me. Luckily, all the ingredients were easily available in the local grocery store and wonton instructions abound on the interwebs. I bought the wonton wrappers, the ground turkey, green onions, fresh ginger, Maui onion, organic vegetable broth and shiitake mushrooms all in a single stop.

I started by finely chopping the onion and mushrooms, then sautéing them in a wide pan. Once they were ready, I added the ground turkey, salt, pepper and a grating of fresh ginger, cooking them together for just a few minutes. The wonton wrappers are square, so I brushed two adjoining edges of the wrappers with a little beaten egg, put a teaspoon or so of filling in the center, folded the wontons over and sealed them with the egg to make a triangle around the filling, then dipped one of the tips in the egg and pulled the two tips together to stick them into a sort of dumpling shape.

With all the wontons set aside, I heated the veggie broth and, when it was briskly boiling, added the wontons to it, cooking them until they floated to the top - really, just a very few minutes. Ladled it into bowls over the green onion slices, just to briefly cook them but leave them bright green. The photo I took in their gently lit dining room doesn't do justice to the soup. It was very clean tasting and pure, with just a hint of ginger spice when one of the wontons gave way to the bite. Another time, I think I'd use my own clear chicken broth but this broth-in-a-box was tasty and very quick.

The whole meal took less than half an hour to make, start to finish, including chopping and all. The Youth slurped it down and complimented the cook - no ughs, no faces, just apparent enjoyment all around. If they lied, they both are destined for a career on the stage.

Power Flower

Now that we are back home after a marvelous vacation, I keep remembering the flowers. Mind you, here in NOCA we are pretty blessed with flowers - we have no grounds for complaints in a place that has roses in January!

But Hawaii's flowers are different. Brighter. Bigger. More fragrant. More flagrant. They are sexy and they are absolutely everywhere - decorating the tops of the tallest trees with flame-orange, in the medians at shopping centers, casually tucked behind ears.

Some, like this hibiscus, bloom for a single day, then fade. Others last for several days, perfuming the air as I drive by. When I remember this vacation, my memories will be filled with flowers.

Sweet Treats

After wandering the Punahou carnival on the second night, we were a little foot weary and ready for a treat. There happened to be an ice cream booth nearby - the outcome, if you know us, was predictable.

Here is My Beloved's gigundous almond-covered, chocolate-dipped ice cream bar on a stick. Makes my lychee sorbet look downright dainty, doesn't it?

He could barely finish it before it melted; you can see the ice cream oozing out before he even took a bite. Warm night. But he managed. He's a trouper.

Hoaloha*

My mother had a dear friend in Hawaii, a Kauai-born girl with whom Mom traded recipes, jewelry and art work. I would come for a visit and find a new painting on the walls and Mom would say, "Oh, yes, I traded that one with Karin for the ___." Same with jewelry each admired on the other, or good meals they shared.

When my mother died, Karin was wonderfully consoling to me and every time I visited the Islands I made a point of seeing her once or twice, just to tap into her serenity and spirituality. She was an amazing and lovely person. I will never forget her.

When I worked at Hastings College of the Law, her grandson enrolled as a student and stopped in to my office to say hello. Ever since, I have loved this kid. He has his grandmother's artistic bent - he won the Hastings pumpkin decorating contest every year at Hallowe'en - and his own cheerfully outrageous outlook, unusual in a law student. They tend to be earnest while he is joyous.

Imagine my delight when I spotted him staffing the alumni booth at the Punahou Carnival. He gave me a big hug, as delighted as I was to make connections, and we "talked story" for a few minutes between sales. Because he designed the flying avocado on the logo tshirt they were selling to raise money, of course I had to buy one. A fun memento of an encounter that made the carnival even more delightful for me.

*Hoaloha = beloved friend

Daily Rainbow

I could probably post a daily picture of a Hawaiian rainbow, and each would be prettier than the last. It rains here nearly every day, thanks to the steep mountains that wring fresh water out of the wispy clouds that wreath the highlands while the rest of the island is in sunshine.

When I got married in Hawaii, I was told that it's a good omen if it rains on on your wedding day and, as it's very likely that it will, most brides can be confident of a blessing. The rain here is warm and the water is all that sustains the lush life that flourishes here; situated thousands of miles out in the ocean, these islands would be deserts instead of lush gardens but for the rain.

Because rainbows are a daily feature of life here, one can quickly become a connoisseur of these evanescent arcs of color. Double rainbows are also fairly common, like this one, even though it didn't photograph well.

Rainbows are joyous things, aren't they? But, what about these Islands isn't, come to think of it?

The Joke Is On Me

The funny part about the Portuguese Bean Soup was that there were absolutely no beans in it. Tasty broth, celery and onions, cabbage, crumbled sausage, yes. Beans, no. I researched it on the internet and it's supposed to have beans in it.

Did they just not stir the pot before they scooped out my ladleful?

Or is the joke on the malihini*?

*newcomer

Food Porn

Portuguese Bean Soup is another Punahou carnival standard - ya just gotta try it. Waiting in line for our turn, we noted the amusing signs advertising it that were taped to the outside of the booth.

There were signs featuring lovely ladies, too, but for some reason, this one appealed to me.

Malasadas

The local story is that Leonard's Bakery on Kapahulu Avenue in Honolulu makes the best malasadas on the island and that may be true - we plan to check theirs out later in our stay - but these, made from the recipe of a Punahou alumna of Portuguese heritage, were available at the Punahou Carnival, so we just had to try them.

My friend Meredith, who is a kamaaina (a person born and raised in Hawaii) and a Punahou alumna who has seen many of these carnivals, sent me the inside scoop via email, since she has recently moved to the Mainland. She told me which line would move fastest, so we got our malasadas within minutes.

Hot out of the frying oil and liberally sprinkled with sugar, they are similar to doughnuts, if doughnuts were made in Heaven. They are yeasty, a little greasy and very sweet. Dunked into a cup of coffee, it's hard to imagine anything better. The bitter coffee tempers the sugar and the sugar tempers the bitter coffee. Our second night at the Punahou carnival, we ate dessert first, sitting on metal bleachers, happily dunking and watching the parade of cheerful carnival goers.

Da Punahou Carnival

In all the years I lived in Hawaii, nearly ten, I never attended the Punahou Carnival. This time, I got to go twice. Our young niece was eager to meet her friends there, so we took the opportunity to try something new to us.

Punahou (pronounced poona-ho) is perhaps the preeminent private school in Hawaii - many of its movers and shakers have Punahou in their background, including President Obama. The carnival is always run by the junior class (and their willing parents) but volunteers come back even after their kids graduate - it's just a lot of fun and a good way to make connections in Hawaii. The proceeds from this annual event go to support scholarships for the school. Likely young Barack Obama benefited from one of those scholarships.

The carnival has rides and junk food, like any Mainland carnival, but some of the attractions and eats have a uniquely Hawaiian feel. Where else would you find a booth selling haku leis? What other carnival has a huge book sale? There were long lines at the malasada booths and the chicken "plate lunch" was the most popular meal, beating out even the pizza, teriyaki burger and funnel cake stands. Not to mention the Portuguese bean soup, a staple.

Both times that we sat down to enjoy some food and people watching, the other people at the table engaged us in conversation. Both were Chinese American families, very proud of the children they had sent to Punahou, then on to Mainland colleges. They were interested in us and our lives, as well as open about their own. The whole fair has this cheerful, laid back Hawaiian style. Although it was incredibly crowded and I don't usually do well in big crowds, the tenor of the evening was so relaxed and friendly that I never felt uncomfortable.

A small example occurred when My Beloved and I were walking past a family where the Dad was taking a picture of his wife and their two very small children. We offered to photograph them all together and there was an instant smile and, "Yes, please!" and not even a moment's hesitation at handing over their expensive smart phone to take the photo. Now, these folks were dressed, even the little baby who had only two teeth on the bottom of his big grin, like thugs complete with lots of black, threatening logos, yards of chains and, for the parents, some serious tattooing - all that was missing was the pitbull. But they all clearly had the aloha spirit of relaxed, easy, friendly attitude. They couldn't have been nicer. I won't soon forget the wide smiles and the cheerful "Mahalo" they all gave us, including that adorable snaggle-toothed baby as he waved bye-bye.

Hawaii Calls

Because I spent eight years of my youth in Hawaii, both as a child and as a young adult, this place still feels like home to me. I haven't lived here in nearly 40 years but, like Mark Twain, I can never forget it.

He wrote: "For me its balmy airs are always blowing, its summer seas flashing in the sun; the pulsing of its surf is in my ear; I can see its garlanded crags, its leaping cascades, its plumy palms drowsing by the shore, its remote summits floating like islands above the cloud-rack; I can feel the spirit of its woody solitudes, I hear the plashing of the brooks; in my nostrils still lives the breath of flowers that perished twenty years ago." - Mark Twain, a Biography.

He never returned. I count myself fortunate that I do, as often as I possibly can.

Beach Walking

Whenever we come to Kailua, our first stop is the amazing beach. Just 20 minutes or so from the congested beaches of Waikiki, it is nearly five miles of fine, white sand, warm water of at least 21 shades of blue and green, peopled with perhaps 50 folks sprinkled along its length at any time of the day. Dogs frolic off-leash, people stroll hand in hand or cast fishing lines into the water, joggers show off their stuff, readers spread a towel in the shade and luxuriate in the beauty.

We have had Kona winds today, winds from the south that are humid and languorous. It's hot for us Mainlanders, so walking on the beach with the warm surf lapping over our ankles is the perfect exercise here.

We spied a bottle bobbing in the waves and spun some stories for ourselves about what might be written on a message within. It was too far out to capture it, but it captured our fantasies - almost more fun not to know.

Kailua no ka oi.

Aloha Kitty

When I lived in western New York state, I adopted a wonderful little cat that I named Heartley Boy. He looked a lot like this one. One of the spots on the side of his head was perfectly heart-shaped, hence the name. He was my companion for many years and he moved with me to California.

Because this was his coloring, whenever I see a white cat with black splotches like this, I think of my boy. I think he was part Siamese, as he was mouthy as all get out - in fact, I think that's why no one adopted him before I did. He talked more or less constantly in a loud, hoarse voice. But for loving, purring sweetness, there has never been a nicer cat.

This girl more or less owns the Kalapawai Market in Kailua, on the windward side of Oahu. Her name is Dot. We stopped at the Kalapawai Market for a cup of coffee to carry down to the beach and, napping in the back room was Dot, all decked out in her silk flower lei. She graciously accepts pats from strangers, then drops back to sleep. They have pictures of all their staff under glass on the counter, including Dot in several poses - yoga stretching, held in fondling arms, sitting pretty next to the supply of styrofoam coolers.

Hawaii no ka oi. Hawaii is the best.

Polynesian Paralysis

I have been struggling for almost a week now with a mighty case of Polynesian paralysis, that condition that strikes malihinis (newcomers) here in Hawaii. The urge to get things accomplished today wanes, the warm weather and languid breezes sap one's energy and whole days seem to float by with little in the way of progress.

I'm giving in.

Instead of the usual "what we are eating today" posts, I'm going to fall back on pretty pictures or pictures that typify Island life to me. Pictures that show the Aloha spirit, or maybe pictures that just amuse me. Like this one.

We were driving out to the beach (10 minutes from where we are staying) when we spied this on the back window of a minivan. We followed the people to their grocery store destination and parked close to them so we could sneak a picture of their humor. Several cars and trucks around here have similar signs on them, but they are truly in memory of a lost loved one - rather sobering. But this one just made us smile on our way to wade in the warm water.

Chinatown Sign

Everyone here is preparing for Chinese New Year, even if they aren't Chinese. The Year of the Rabbit seems to be an excuse to have fun, no matter your ethnicity in Hawaii. Good luck curly bamboos are sold even in pharmacies and everyone is enjoying Chinese delicacies. I love this about Hawaii - borrowing each other's customs and celebrations.

Found this sign on a side street in Chinatown. The fruit was stacked out of sight of the shop owner, so the honor system was in play. Another reason to love this place.

Hamneggs, Hawaiian style

The same day we arrived in Hawaii, Chinese New Year was scheduled to begin, with fireworks, drumming and lion dancing in Chinatown on Hotel Street in Honolulu, so we drove back over the Pali to gather some good luck for 2011.

Hotel Street is notorious for strip clubs, houses of ill repute and bars, as well as being the center of Honolulu's Chinatown. When I was a young woman, I was waiting on the curb on Hotel Street for my date to park the car when I was approached by a young sailor from Pearl Harbor hoping to purchase my company for an evening. He was really pretty nice, very young and sweet, so I turned him down gently and thanked him for giving me a singular life experience.

I wish you could have been with us to explore the shops, enjoy the double arching rainbow, listen to the indefatigable drummers, risk deafness from the smoky, exciting fireworks, watch with amazement the antics of the various lion dancers, feed a little reward money into the lions' mouths for good luck this year, and sample the foods during our stroll around the area. It was colorful, noisy fun of a kind I associate strongly with Hawaii.

We sampled several treats along the way - butter mochi (a little too sweet for my taste) and this, pork hash, a little ball of protein goodness. The "pork hash" is like eggs and ham, but Chinese style. The filling is more like ham hash, a little salty and greasy, but in a good way, then wrapped in a paper-thin layer of scrambled egg. They cost less than a dollar and one is plenty to fill me up for more exploration along Hotel Street, enjoying today and memories of my past.

Wahoo!

"Ono" in Hawaiian means "tasty" or "delicious," but locally it is also used to mean, "the best." It is a lovely fish - white, mild and firm-fleshed - from the deep ocean waters off Hawaii and other tropical places worldwide, where it is known as "wahoo."

It is an exciting sport fish as well as a delicious meal. If there is a down side to ono, it is that it dries out dramatically if overcooked. Because of this, I hesitated before ordering this at the Kaneohe Yacht Club, a delightfully casual club that my Hawaii brother belongs to. The members of KYC don't ever want it to become stuffy and upscale, so they purposefully put rules in place that keep it from becoming silly.

After dithering happily between ono and ahi on my luncheon salad, I decided to take a chance on the ono. Turns out I made exactly the right choice. The young chef at KYC knew just how long to cook it so that it was still moist and perfect. Add to that a view of the Koolau mountain range on the windward side of Oahu over the tops of the masts docked in the tiny KYC marina, and you have a lunch fit for a Hawaiian queen. Maybe I'm the reincarnation of Ka'ahumanu, she who broke the taboos and first ate foods forbidden to women and, not content with that level of badass, also ate in the company of men.

Wahoo!

Only in Hawaii, part one

How often are you hugged by the check-in people at your airline?

I had never had it happen before - usually, you're lucky if they are smiling and not short-tempered after a day of dealing with bewildered travelers. On our way to Hawaii this time, however, we encountered this lovely little lady, 84 years young and as friendly as it's possible to be.

She is a volunteer for Hawaiian Airlines. She and two of her fellow senior citizens were flitting around in front of the self check-in stations, helping people to learn the computerized check-in process. She is about half my height, a diminutive dynamo complete with muumuu, Hawaiian print purse and baby blue silk lei. I asked her why she volunteered and she smiled and shrugged, "Oh, just for something to do" she said, "I used to play ukulele in a band, now I do this!"

Completely charmed, I asked permission to take her picture and she agreed although she said she didn't take good pictures. I don't agree; I think it captured her lively, sweet face.

Then, she insisted on a big hug. I bent down to be surrounded by her surprisingly strong embrace and a whiff of sweet flower perfume before hurrying away to shuffle my way barefooted through the security lines. Over the many years I have visited Hawaii, I have had many such encounters that always make me think, "Only in Hawaii!" And, her aloha stretched all the way to the Mainland!

Paradise

My Hawaii family.

At Buzz's Steak House in Lanikai.

This may not be heaven, but you can see it from here.

Da Kine Hawaiian Snack

Pretty soon, My Beloved and I are headed to Hawaii to visit our ohana (family) there - we can't wait!

Apparently, the Hawaii contingent is excited, too, because last week in the mail we got drawings from the children, welcoming notes from the parents and this package of da kine snacks from Hawaii.

I remember Li Hing Mui from my childhood in Hawaii but this is a new wrinkle on that old game. Japanese pretzel-type snacks with Chinese flavorings and a Hawaiian poi pounder on the label - nothing could say "Hawaii" to me more except maybe getting the "shaka" greeting from a friend.

Can't wait to have a malasada from one of those beach trucks, to enjoy mahimahi fresh from my brother's fishing catch, to taste pineapple still warm from the field, to eat Maui onions as a local delicacy and to drink a cup of Lion brand coffee as we walk down Kailua beach at sunrise.

Hawaii no ka oi!