She's a Dilly!

Our friend Sari is a dilly! That's an antiquated expression meaning that she's cool. Even though we are old enough to be her parents, she treats us like equals and even accompanied us to Paris with every indication that she actually enjoyed palling around with a couple of fogies.

She has all kinds of stellar qualities such as snapping intelligence, humor, deep kindness and humanity - and she makes great scrambled eggs. On a recent Sunday, we invited her to brunch; we provided the bacon and toast but we asked her to cook the eggs.

She puts a dollop of milk or cream into the eggs, then beats them with a fork until they are homogeneous, adding just a touch of dill weed to the mixture. She has the patience to cook the eggs in a generously buttered pan on very, very low heat and keeps vigorously stirring them all the time they are cooking. The result is pillow-soft, dainty curds that melt richly on the tongue, leaving that hint of dill behind. Served with a piece of Acme Pain au Levain, they make a dilly brunch.