Queen of Salad

We were sadly predictable children in some ways, turning up our noses at liver, spinach, etc. Sometimes, I look back and wonder where our mother found the patience to raise four of us with a Navy husband who was often away for long periods. I'd probably have drowned us all shortly after birth. She, however, was made of queenly stuff. A few silly kids were not going to defeat her!

So, when we refused to eat chicken livers, she always said with a regal smile, "Fine! All the more for me!" She sautéed them in butter with herbs, deglazed the pan with just a splash of white wine, got out her finest china and silver, and served them to herself over buttered toast points, clearly relishing every bite.

In the fullness of time, I discovered that she was right all along - chicken livers are really tasty. Sautéed with butter and garlic, then whirled in a blender, they make a fine paté. Cooked gently with mushrooms and onions, they are delicious over toast. They also make a great salad addition, served piping hot over the greens.

The ticket with chicken livers is, as with all liver, not to overcook them. Melt some butter in a sauté pan, and let it get pretty hot (but not browned or smoking), then add the livers. (Before cooking, I trim off the connective tissue and those mysterious white things). Don't crowd them in the pan or they will steam rather than caramelize. Sauté lightly until they are just done, still pink in the interior - they will feel still slightly soft. Decorate your already-dressed (vinaigrette is best) salad with a few of these little brown beauties, perhaps a crouton or two, and sit down to a meal fit for my mother, the queen.