In Defense of Mayo

Recently, the subject of mayonnaise has taken on the tone of Obama vs. McCain.

What did mayo do to earn such vitriolic attacks in the blogosphere?

A fairly bland, innocent sauce, it seems inoffensive to me but several blog posts I have read recently talk about mayo as if it is solely responsible for all the obesity and lack of taste in this country.

I understand that too much mayo is not a good thing, that it clogs arteries and coats taste buds equally well when used to excess.

Used sparingly, however, I think it improves lots of foods. For example, fresh, ripe tomato slices are great with a tiny dab of mayo and a generous sprinkling with freshly ground pepper. Belgian fries are sublime with the lemony mayonnaise served in that country. I make a dynamite creamy Caesar dressing using just a tablespoon thinned with lemon juice and mixed with garlic and anchovies. I like it on sandwiches to keep the bread from getting soggy. It is the foundation for great curried deviled eggs. I could go on all day but I don't really need to - I'd just like to ask, what is it about mayonnaise that turns you off?

What did mayo ever do to deserve such scurrilous attacks?

Mayon-ease

The artichokes in the market were just so beautiful this year that we had to buy more! Serendipitously, Molly's latest article in Bon Appetit magazine had to do with making one's own mayonaise. Since she was brave and tried, it, I figured I could, too.

Following her directions, which were pretty darn simple, I beat the egg yolk with the vinegar/lemon juice mixture, then added the oil drop by drop until the mixture got stiff, after which I could add the oil a little bit faster. It made a lovely, smooth, earthy, softly yellow mayo that was scrumptious with the steamed artichokes.

This one was made with olive oil and a mixture of lemon juice and vinegar - next time, I'm going for all lemon juice and I might try a milder oil for things that won't stand up to its fruity smell and taste. But, with spring artichokes, MB and I agreed it couldn't be bettered except, just possibly, by melted butter with lemon!